Ciqikou Old Town: Chongqing's "Little Chongqing" on the Jialing

Ciqikou is a former river port in Shapingba district, on the Jialing River west of the centre, with stone-paved lanes and Ming and Qing-style buildings. Walking in is free, and metro Line 1 stops at Ciqikou station. Go first thing in the morning. By late morning on weekends the main street is a slow shuffle past snack stalls, while the side lanes and the riverfront stay quieter. Two hours is enough. It fits best on the morning of your second day, before an afternoon on the peninsula. The rest of the city is in the Chongqing travel guide.

How it got its names

The town was first known as Baiyan or Baiya, after a temple on the hill above it. Legend says the Jianwen Emperor, deposed by his uncle in the early Ming, hid at the temple for several years. The temple became Longyin ("hidden dragon"), and the town took the same name. In the Qing dynasty the area became known for porcelain, so the town was renamed "porcelain port", ciqikou. The character was later written with a different "ci", which stuck.

From the Ming onwards it was an important wharf for goods moving along the lower Jialing. During the war years, writers and artists including Guo Moruo, Xu Beihong, Ba Jin and Bing Xin lived nearby. A stone near the dock bears the inscription "Little Chongqing", written by Lin Sen, the wartime head of state.

A walking route

1. Yinglong Gate, the main entrance from the metro side. Come at about 09:00, before tour groups arrive.
2. The main street, downhill towards the river. The busiest stretch, lined with snack and souvenir shops.
3. The side lanes. The town has a dozen lanes, and the older houses, courtyards and teahouses are mostly away from the main street.
4. Baolun Temple, above the town, the former Longyin temple. Small temples and courtyards may charge an entry fee, shown at the door.
5. The riverfront, at the bottom of the town, for the wharf and the Jialing.

Allow 90 minutes to two hours. Climbing back up to the metro is the only steep part.

What to eat

The town is known for Chen mahua, a crunchy fried dough twist sold in many flavours, often as a gift. Also look for spiced chicken giblets and Zhang Fei beef. Mao xue wang, a spicy stew of blood tofu, tripe and other offal, is closely associated with Ciqikou. Street-stall quality varies. Sit down for a meal if you want a proper bowl.

Getting there

Take metro Line 1 west to Ciqikou station. From the centre it's a straight ride on the same line from Xiaoshizi or Jiaochangkou. From the station, follow the signs to the old town. It's a short walk to the Yinglong Gate and the start of the main street. Taxis drop off near the gate, but the roads around it are jammed at weekends.

Photos

The best photos are in the early morning: the gate before the crowds, the stone lanes still damp, the old shopfronts with their shutters half open. Later in the day, look for details rather than wide shots, such as carved wooden windows, tea being poured or a street vendor making mahua. The river end of the town is the best place for a wider view.

When to go, and when to skip

• Best: weekday mornings.
• Worst: weekend afternoons and national holidays, when the main street can come to a standstill.
• Skip it if you've only two days and have already had your fill of "old Chongqing" around Jiefangbei and Hongyadong, or if you are visiting other old towns elsewhere on your trip.

Nearby: Gele Mountain

Gele Mountain rises behind Ciqikou in the same district. On it are the former prisons of Bai Mansion and Zhazidong, now memorial sites to the Communist prisoners held and killed there in 1949. Chinese visitors know their story from the novel Red Crag. They make a sobering half-day. Check the opening hours and booking rules before you go, and allow for the taxi ride between the sites.

Pairing

Ciqikou is a 30-minute metro ride from Yuzhong. Combine it with the Yangtze Cableway in the afternoon, and dinner and the night views on the peninsula. Don't try to squeeze it into an evening with Hongyadong. Dazu and Wulong are day trips of their own. Shapingba station, nearby, is useful if you're catching a high-speed train to Dazu South.

Frequently asked questions

Is Ciqikou free?

Yes, the old town is free to walk around. Some small temples and courtyards inside charge their own entry.

How long do you need in Ciqikou?

Ninety minutes to two hours for the main street, a few side lanes and the riverfront.

Is Ciqikou worth visiting?

Yes, if you go early and like snack streets and old buildings. If you only have one day in Chongqing, skip it in favour of the peninsula.

Before you go

• The streets are free. Small temples and courtyard sites may charge, so check the boards at the door.
• Shop hours run from morning into the evening. Many stalls open later than 09:00.
• Bring cash or a mobile wallet. Some stalls don't take foreign cards.