Hezhou Travel Guide: Huangyao Ancient Town and the Hills of Northeast Guangxi
Hezhou is the corner of Guangxi that borders Hunan and Guangdong, and the reason most travellers stop is Huangyao, a Ming and Qing market town of slate lanes, stone bridges and ancestral halls set among karst peaks. Huangyao is in Zhaoping County, a long drive from Hezhou city, so the best plan is to sleep in the old town itself, or at least give it a full day. Gupo Mountain's forest park is a good second day if you like walking; the city is mainly a high-speed rail stop.
Huangyao: why it's worth the effort
Settlement here goes back to the Song dynasty, and the name comes from the two most common local surnames, Huang and Yao. The town grew under the late Ming and boomed in the Qianlong era of the Qing, which is why more than 300 old buildings survive: two-storey brick houses with black tile roofs, over 30 temples, ancestral halls and pavilions, and many small bridges over the streams that run through town. The setting did the rest. Film crews have used it repeatedly, including for the 2006 film The Painted Veil.
Only about 2,000 people still live in the old town; most residents have moved to the new part of Huangyao. That keeps the lanes quiet in the early morning and the evening, while day-trippers fill them from late morning to mid-afternoon.
How to see it well:
- Stay the night inside or next to the old town if you can. Guesthouses in converted houses are the main accommodation.
- Walk the lanes before 9 am and after 5 pm, when tour groups have gone and the light is low.
- Spend the middle of the day in the ancestral halls and temples, or climb one of the small hills at the edge of town for a view over the roofs.
- Wear shoes with grip: slate streets are slippery after rain, and it rains a lot.
Entry rules, ticket prices and timed-entry policies for 2026 aren't confirmed here; check the scenic area's official notice before you go.
Gupo Mountain and other day trips
Gupo Mountain, near the city, is a national forest park with waterfalls, streams and forest trails. It's the place locals escape to in summer. Go on a clear day and allow most of a day including transport; trails may close after heavy rain, so check before setting out.
Fuchuan Yao Autonomous County, in the north of the prefecture, adds Yao villages and countryside if you have a car and an extra day. Hezhou's population includes Zhuang, Yao, Miao and large Hakka communities, and the food and village architecture reflect that mix.
Hezhou city
Hezhou city (Babu and Pinggui districts) is a practical base with hotels, banks and restaurants, and not much else for visitors. Use it for a night if trains force it, and otherwise head straight for Huangyao.
When to come to Hezhou
The climate is humid subtropical, with an average of about 20 °C and around 1,560 mm of rain a year, mostly in late spring and summer. October to December is the most reliable season: drier air, clear karst views, comfortable walking. March and April can be lovely but wet. Summer is hot and humid, though Gupo is cooler. Huangyao is packed during national holidays.
Getting in and where to stay
Hezhou station is on the Guiyang–Guangzhou high-speed railway, so it's a short ride from Guilin and a couple of hours from Guangzhou. From the station, Huangyao needs a bus or a booked car; road transfers take well over an hour, so confirm departure times and don't count on late-evening buses.
Stay in Huangyao if the town is your main reason for coming. Stay in Hezhou city only for an early train or if you're doing Gupo Mountain.
Eating in Hezhou
Huangyao is known for fermented black beans (douchi) and tofu dishes, and stuffed tofu and stuffed vegetables appear on most menus here. Rice noodles are the standard breakfast across Guangxi. Restaurants inside the old town mostly cater to visitors; prices are higher and quality varies, so look at what locals order and check prices before ordering fish or free-range chicken.
How to arrange the route
Day 1: High-speed train to Hezhou, transfer to Huangyao in the afternoon, evening walk through the lanes.
Day 2: Early morning in Huangyao, halls and temples at midday, then back to Hezhou for an onward train.
Day 3 (optional): Gupo Mountain forest park, or a drive through Fuchuan's Yao villages.
What to cut if short on time
Cut the city first, then Gupo. Huangyao as a day trip from Hezhou still works if that's all you have, but you'll see it at its busiest.
Things to confirm before you go
- Huangyao entry and ticket rules on the official notice.
- Bus or car times between Hezhou station and Huangyao, including the last return.
- Trail status at Gupo Mountain after rain.
- Holiday dates, when accommodation in the old town sells out.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do I need in Hezhou?
Two days: one night in Huangyao plus travel. Add a day for Gupo Mountain.
Is Huangyao better than Yangshuo?
They're different. Yangshuo is about river scenery and outdoor activities; Huangyao is about walking a well-preserved old town. Huangyao is far quieter.
Can I visit Huangyao from Guilin?
Yes. Take the high-speed train to Hezhou and transfer by road. A day trip is possible but rushed; an overnight is much better.
Sources
The facts in this article were checked against the following Wikipedia and encyclopedia entries, retrieved September 25, 2026, and rechecked on October 17, 2026.
- Hezhou https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hezhou
- Huangyao ancient town summaries (cross-checked)
- Northeast Guangxi corridor summaries (cross-checked)
- Huangyao https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huangyao
Tickets change; this article does not invent yuan amounts.
All photos are from Wikimedia Commons, used under CC licenses or public domain; re-use requires attribution.
- hezhou-huangyao.jpg from File:View of Huangyao ancient town.jpg, by Diego Robayo, CC BY-SA 2.0
- hezhou-huangyao-hills.jpg from File:Hills of Huangyao.jpg, by tak.wing, CC BY-SA 2.0
- hezhou-city.jpg from File:贺州市一角.JPG, by 义伍村, CC BY-SA 3.0