Hefang Street, Hangzhou

Hefang Street (河坊街) is the old commercial heart of Hangzhou, a pedestrian street at the foot of Wu Hill a short walk east of West Lake. It is free and always open, and is liveliest from late afternoon into the evening. Come for snacks, tea, a look at the old pharmacy of Hu Qing Yu Tang, and an hour or two of wandering. Take metro Line 7 to Wushan Square (exit C) or Line 1 to Ding'an Road. It is a pleasant way to end a day at the lake. Just don't give up lake time for it.

For the rest of the city, see the Hangzhou travel guide.

What it is

Hefang Street runs from Nanshan Road by the lake to Jiangcheng Road in the east, and the pedestrian stretch, rebuilt in old style, is between Zhonghe Middle Road and South Yan'an Road. It crosses the Qinghefang historic district. Where it meets Zhongshan Middle Road, the old Imperial Way of the Southern Song capital, was the busiest corner of the city from the Song until the early 20th century. That history is why so many of Hangzhou's long-established shops are here. More than a hundred old brands and other shops line the street, selling tea, silk, scissors, fans, medicine, antiques and calligraphy, between plenty of ordinary souvenirs.

Expect a tourist street. Most of the façades are reconstructions, and the snacks cost more than elsewhere. But it is cheerful and walkable, and it is close to the lake.

Hu Qing Yu Tang

The one place worth going inside is Hu Qing Yu Tang (胡庆余堂), a traditional Chinese pharmacy founded in 1874 by Hu Xueyan, the famous late-Qing merchant, on Dajing Lane just off Hefang Street. The building is a fine piece of 19th-century architecture, built around courtyards with carved wood, and part of it still works as a pharmacy. The rest is a museum of Chinese medicine (胡庆余堂中药博物馆), with displays on herbs, preparations and the business's history.

• Address: 95 Dajing Lane (大井巷).
• Hours: 08:30 to 17:00, last entry 16:30.
• Tickets: 10 yuan for adults, 5 yuan for full-time university students and ages 60 to 69, free for under-18s and over-70s, with ID.

Allow 45 minutes. It is the best reason to come here in daylight.

Eating on Hefang Street

Snack stalls change often, so look for long queues of locals more than any particular name. Things to try:

• Congbao hui'er (葱包桧儿): a fried dough stick and spring onion rolled in a thin pancake, pressed on a griddle and brushed with sweet bean sauce. It is a Hangzhou speciality.
• Pian'er chuan noodles (片儿川): noodles in broth with pickled greens, bamboo shoots and pork.
• Small steamed buns and dumplings, and sweet osmanthus-flavoured snacks in autumn.

For a proper Hangzhou dinner, with West Lake fish in vinegar or Dongpo pork, go to one of the long-established restaurants. On a street like this, the snacks are the better deal.

When to go

• Late afternoon to about 21:00: the street is at its liveliest, lanterns lit, stalls open. On holiday evenings it gets very crowded.
• Weeknights after 21:00: quieter. Some shops close, but the street is still pleasant to walk.
• Daytime: calmer, best for Hu Qing Yu Tang and the tea shops.

In heavy crowds, keep bags in front of you. If it rains, the shopfronts give some cover, and the tea houses are good places to sit it out.

Wu Hill rises behind the street, with paths up to the City God Pavilion (城隍阁), a modern tower with a view over the lake and the city. The pavilion charges for entry, so check its hours if you want to climb before dusk.

How it fits a Hangzhou trip

• After a day on West Lake: walk or ride from Leifeng Pagoda or the east shore for dinner. It's about 15 to 20 minutes on foot from Hubin.
• After Liuhe Pagoda: the bus back from Liuhe Pagoda on the Qiantang brings you towards the old town.
• Not instead of Lingyin: Lingyin Temple needs a booked morning or afternoon, and Hefang will still be here in the evening.

Hangzhou railway station (城站) is close by, which makes this a good last stop before an evening train from there.

Frequently asked questions

Is Hefang Street free?

Yes. The street is free and open at all times. Hu Qing Yu Tang's museum charges 10 yuan.

What is Hefang Street known for?

Old shops and Hangzhou snacks, in what was the city's commercial centre from the Song dynasty to the early 20th century, and the Hu Qing Yu Tang pharmacy.

How do I get to Hefang Street by metro?

Line 7 to Wushan Square station (exit C), or Line 1 to Ding'an Road, then a short walk.