Mount Qingcheng: Front Mountain, Back Mountain and the Trip from Chengdu
Mount Qingcheng is a forested Daoist mountain, with peaks around 1,600 metres, near Dujiangyan and about 70 km north-west of Chengdu, and one of the places where Daoism took shape as an organised religion. It has long been called "the most secluded place under heaven". There are two areas. The front mountain has the temples: Jianfu Palace, Tianshi Cave and Shangqing Palace, along stone steps through the trees. The back mountain is quieter, with gorges, streams and longer hikes. A front-mountain ticket costs 80 yuan. In peak season the gates open 08:00 to 17:30. Allow four to five hours. Take the intercity train from Chengdu to Qingchengshan station. Shared UNESCO status with the Dujiangyan irrigation system came in 2000. If you only have one day outside Chengdu, Dujiangyan is usually the better choice.
How it fits a longer stay is in the Chengdu travel guide.
Front mountain or back mountain?
| Front mountain | Back mountain | |
|---|---|---|
| What you get | Daoist temples, stone steps, forest | Gorges, streams, waterfalls, longer trails |
| Adult ticket | 80 yuan | About 20 yuan (from secondary listings) |
| Crowds | Busy, especially weekends | Quieter |
| Time | 4 to 5 hours | Half a day to a full day |
| Best for | First visit, temples and history | Hikers, people avoiding crowds |
On a first visit, choose the front mountain. The back mountain suits people who have been before, or who want a nature walk more than temples. The two are on opposite sides of the mountain, so doing both in one day is unrealistic.
Tickets and hours
- Front mountain: 80 yuan for adults. Open 08:00 to 17:30 in peak season, 08:30 to 17:00 in the low season. Last entry is earlier.
- Back mountain: about 20 yuan according to recent listings. Confirm the price with the official channel.
- Booking: real-name online booking through the official Qingcheng-Dujiangyan scenic area channels, with a passport.
- Extras: the lake ferry and cable cars on both sides cost extra, and they may stop in storms or for maintenance.
A half-day route on the front mountain
- Front gate and Jianfu Palace. Near the foot of the mountain, Jianfu Palace is the first major temple. It is a good introduction to Daoist halls and courtyards.
- The climb to Tianshi Cave. Stone steps lead up through the forest, past pavilions, to Tianshi Cave (the Cave of the Celestial Master). Tradition says that Zhang Daoling, founder of the Celestial Masters school of Daoism, taught here in the second century. It is the spiritual centre of the mountain.
- Yuecheng Lake and the cable car. To save your legs, a short ferry across the lake connects with the cable car, which goes most of the way up towards Shangqing Palace.
- Shangqing Palace. A temple high on the mountain, among old trees and mist. On clear days there are views over the forest.
- Laojun Pavilion. The summit pavilion, a short, steep climb further up. Go up for the view if you have energy left. Otherwise, start down.
Walking up and down without the cable car is a full, tiring day. The common plan is to walk up via Tianshi Cave and ride the cable car down, or the reverse.
The back mountain
The back mountain is centred on Tai'an Ancient Town, a small town at its foot with guesthouses and restaurants. From there, trails follow gorges such as Five Dragon Gorge and Feiquan Gorge past waterfalls, plank paths and forest. A cable car helps on the higher sections. This side is better as a full day, or an overnight stay. It is cool in summer, which makes it a popular escape from the Chengdu heat for local visitors.
Getting there from Chengdu
Train. Intercity trains on the Chengdu-Dujiangyan line run from Xipu station and some other Chengdu stations to Qingchengshan station, near the front mountain. Check the timetable on 12306. From the station, local buses and taxis run to the front gate. The back mountain needs a separate bus or taxi to Tai'an.
Tour. Tours often combine Qingcheng with Dujiangyan. That is easy, but you get only a short time on the mountain.
Allow one and a half hours or more door to door each way.
On the mountain
- Respect the temples. These are active Daoist sites. Speak quietly in halls, and ask before photographing priests or worshippers.
- Bring water and a light rain jacket. Prices go up with altitude, and showers are common.
- Wear good shoes. Steps are often damp and mossy, and the way down is hard on knees.
- Expect mist. It's part of the mountain's character but can hide the views.
When to go
Spring and autumn are best for walking. Summer is cooler on the mountain than in the city, but storms and crowds are more common. Winter is quiet and cold, and shaded steps can be icy after a frost. Weekdays are much calmer than weekends.
Mount Qingcheng or Dujiangyan?
Dujiangyan is a mostly level walk focused on history and engineering, and Qingcheng is a mountain climb focused on temples and forest. With one free day, most travellers choose Dujiangyan. With two, do one each day. Combining both in one day means a very early start and a rushed visit. City sights such as the panda base, Kuanzhai Alley and the Wuhou Shrine belong on other days.
Things to confirm before you go
- Front or back mountain, since they use different gates and tickets.
- Cable car and ferry status, especially in bad weather.
- The last train back to Chengdu.
- Weather and storm warnings.
Frequently asked questions
Is Mount Qingcheng worth visiting?
It is if you're interested in Daoism, temples or forest walks. On a short trip, Dujiangyan or the city sights may be a better use of the day.
Front or back mountain: which is better?
The front mountain is better for temples and a first visit. The back mountain is better for quieter hiking and gorges.
How long does it take to climb Mount Qingcheng?
About four to five hours for the front mountain, using the cable car one way.