Huai'an Travel Guide: Zhou Enlai's Hometown on the Grand Canal
Huai'an sits where the Grand Canal meets the Huai River, the traditional line between northern and southern China. Most Chinese visitors come because Zhou Enlai, the first Premier of the People's Republic, was born here in 1898. The bonus is that his former residence lies in the old town (Huai'an District, southeast of the modern centre) alongside Zhenhuai Lou, the canal governor's office site and Hexia, a canal-side quarter linked to the author of Journey to the West. Base yourself near the old town and you can walk between most of them in a day.
The old town: one walkable day
Zhou Enlai's former residence
The family compound where Zhou was born and spent his childhood is a traditional grey-brick courtyard house, kept with period furnishings and exhibitions on his early life. It's modest in scale and moving for many Chinese visitors; expect school and work-unit groups, particularly on weekdays in term and around anniversaries. Go early. Entry arrangements, including whether you need to reserve with ID, can change, so check the official notice before you go.
The separate Zhou Enlai Memorial Hall, a large monumental complex on a lake in the same district, suits those who want the full story of his career. If you only have time for one, the residence is more personal. Both are covered on the Zhou Enlai former residence page.
Zhenhuai Lou and the canal governor's office
Zhenhuai Lou, the drum tower at the centre of the old town, is the landmark everyone photographs; climb it if it's open for the view over the rooftops. Nearby, the site of the Governor-General of Grain Transport's office recalls the time when every boatload of tax grain heading north to the capital passed through Huai'an. It's a reminder of how important this junction was: the first canal here was dug in 486 BC, and the Sui dynasty made it part of the Grand Canal. The governor's office site and China Canal Museum page has the history and visiting details.
Hexia old town
A short ride west, Hexia is an old canal-side quarter of stone-paved lanes and merchant houses. It's associated with Wu Cheng'en (1500–1582), author of Journey to the West, whose former residence is here. It's touristy at weekends but pleasant for an evening stroll and snacks. The salt merchant history and an evening route are on the Hexia Ancient Town page.
Beyond the old town
Qingjiangpu, the modern centre, has the Qingyan Garden, a classical garden once attached to the river-works administration. It's worth an hour if you're staying in this part of the city.
Hongze Lake, China's fourth-largest freshwater lake, lies to the southwest. Its shores are flat and wide, best for a half-day drive rather than a destination in itself.
Xuyi County, on the lake's southern side, is famous nationwide for crayfish, celebrated in an annual festival in early summer. It also holds the Ming Ancestors Mausoleum, built for the forebears of the Ming dynasty's founder. Both need a car and most of a day.
When to come to Huai'an
Huai'an has a humid climate typical of the Jianghuai plain: hot summers, damp cool winters, and a rainy spell in early summer. April to May and September to November are best for walking. Summer crowds and heat make outdoor queues tiring. Crayfish season peaks in early summer.
Getting in and where to stay
High-speed trains arrive at Huai'an East, on lines linking Xuzhou, Lianyungang, Yancheng and the Yangtze cities. Conventional trains use Huai'an station in Huaiyin District. Huai'an Lianshui International Airport is about 22 km from the centre, with domestic flights. Check which station your train uses, as they're far apart, and allow time for taxis to the old town.
Stay in Huai'an District near the old town to walk to the main sights. Qingjiangpu has more hotels and nightlife but means a taxi or bus each morning.
Eating in Huai'an
Huai'an claims to be one of the cradles of Huaiyang cuisine, the refined, lightly seasoned style also associated with Yangzhou. Dishes to look for:
- Ruandou changyu: stir-fried strips of eel in a glossy sauce, the city's signature dish.
- Pingqiao tofu: soft tofu in a thick, savoury broth.
- Cattail shoots (pucai): a local vegetable that turns up in soups and stir-fries.
- Crayfish: especially from Xuyi in season.
Prices for eel and crayfish vary with season and size; check before you order.
How to arrange the route
Day 1: Zhou Enlai's former residence first thing, Zhenhuai Lou and the canal governor's office site late morning, Hexia in the afternoon and evening.
Day 2: Zhou Enlai Memorial Hall or Qingyan Garden, then onward by train.
Day 3 (optional): Xuyi for crayfish and the Ming Ancestors Mausoleum, or Hongze Lake.
Onward: Yangzhou for gardens and more Huaiyang food, Yancheng for the coast, Suqian, or Lianyungang.
What to cut if short on time
Drop Hongze Lake and Xuyi first, then the Memorial Hall. With a single day, do the residence, Zhenhuai Lou and Hexia, all in the old town.
Things to confirm before you go
- Entry and reservation rules at the Zhou Enlai sites.
- Opening hours for Zhenhuai Lou and the canal sites.
- Which station your train uses (Huai'an East or Huai'an).
- Crayfish festival dates if you're timing a trip around them.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do I need in Huai'an?
One day covers the old town. Two let you add the Memorial Hall and a slower meal schedule.
Is Huai'an worth visiting if I'm not interested in Zhou Enlai?
Yes, if you like canal history and Huaiyang food. Hexia and Zhenhuai Lou don't require any interest in modern politics.
Huai'an or Yangzhou?
Yangzhou is more polished, with famous gardens. Huai'an is quieter and cheaper, with the Zhou Enlai sites and canal heritage. They're on the same rail corridor, so it's easy to do both.
Sources
The facts in this article were checked against the following Wikipedia and encyclopedia entries, retrieved September 18, 2026, and rechecked on October 17, 2026.
- Huai'an https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huai%27an
- Zhou Enlai https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zhou_Enlai
- Grand Canal (China) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_Canal_(China)
- Huai'an (Chinese) https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/淮安市
Site tickets change; this article does not invent yuan amounts.
All photos are from Wikimedia Commons, used under stated licenses; re-use requires attribution.
- huaian-zhou-residence.jpg from File:淮安周恩来故居2019 (1).jpg, by ScareCriterion12, CC BY-SA 4.0
- huaian-zhou-hall.jpg from File:Exhibition hall (birthplace and former residence of Zhou Enlai historical site, Huai'an, Jiangsu Province).jpg, by Nnu-12-22100547, CC BY-SA 3.0
- huaian-zhenhuai.jpg from File:镇淮楼.JPG, by TIY, Public domain