Pingjiang Road, Suzhou
Pingjiang Road (平江路) is a 1.6 km lane running north to south through the eastern old city, with a canal alongside and stone bridges every few hundred metres. It is free and open all the time. It is the best place in central Suzhou to see the old pattern of street and water side by side, a layout that has barely changed in about 800 years. People still live in the houses behind the teahouses and shops. Start at the north end, a few minutes from the Humble Administrator's Garden and Zhuozhengyuan Subo station on metro Line 6, and walk south to Xiangmen station on Line 1. That takes an hour with stops, or two with tea.
For the rest of the city, see the Suzhou travel guide.
Why it's worth your time
Suzhou was once a city of canals, with the main streets running beside the water. Most of that was filled in or widened for traffic in the 20th century. Pingjiang Road was not: its width, its bridges and the scale of the houses along it are much as they were. Compared with Shantang Street in the north-west, it is quieter and more residential. Compared with the water towns outside the city, it is free and ten minutes from your hotel.
It is still a tourist street, with plenty of milk-tea shops, souvenir stalls and photo studios renting traditional dress. But step a few metres into the side lanes and you're among ordinary courtyard houses, washing lines and bicycles.
Walking it
North end (Dongbei Street). The quietest stretch, closest to the Humble Administrator's Garden. Coming from the garden, walk east along Dongbei Street for a few minutes and turn right.
The middle. The busiest section, with most of the teahouses, bookshops and snack bars. Sit at a canalside teahouse for a while and watch the boats go by. Pingtan, Suzhou's storytelling and ballad singing, is performed in some teahouses here. Check the board outside for times and prices.
Side lanes. More than twenty lanes branch off Pingjiang Road, and their names are history in themselves. Lion Grove Temple Lane leads west towards the Lion Grove Garden. Dingxiang Lane, Daxinqiao Lane and Zhongzhangjia Lane on the east side are worth a short detour. Pick one or two and wander, but remember these are homes, so keep your voice down and don't walk into courtyards.
South end (Ganjiang Road). Xiangmen station on Line 1 is a few minutes away. From here it's a short taxi ride to Guanqian Street for dinner, or continue east to the restored Xiangmen city gate.
Museums and what to eat
Two small museums are close to the street on Zhongzhangjia Lane, on the east side. The China Kunqu Opera Museum is in the old Quanjin Guild Hall, which has a carved wooden stage. The China Suzhou Pingtan Museum covers the city's storytelling tradition. Both are worth half an hour if you're curious about Suzhou's performing arts. Check opening days and any performance times at the door.
For food, look for Suzhou-style noodles in clear broth with a choice of toppings, sweet osmanthus treats and, in spring, green qingtuan rice balls. Teahouses serve snacks with a pot of local green tea. Prices are higher on the main street than one lane back.
Boats
Small hand-rowed boats take passengers along the canal, either whole-boat or seat by seat. Prices vary with the length of the ride and the time of day, so check the board at the landing and agree the price before boarding. The ride is short, and the street is just as good on foot. Take a boat if you want the low view from the water, which is the view in most photos of Suzhou.
When to go
- Early morning (before 09:00): locals buying breakfast, empty bridges, soft light. The best time for photos.
- Late morning to afternoon: busy, especially at weekends, with queues at the snack shops.
- Evening: lanterns and lights on the water. Busy until about 21:00, then quieter.
- Rain: very atmospheric, but the stone is slippery.
On holidays, the middle section is crowded all day. Go early or late.
Pairing
The obvious plan is the Humble Administrator's Garden at 07:30, Suzhou Museum mid-morning, lunch on Pingjiang Road, then the walk south. If you want a second canal street, Hanshan Temple and Shantang Street in the north-west make a different day with Tiger Hill. If Pingjiang Road gives you enough canal scenery, you may decide to skip a full day trip to Zhouzhuang.
Frequently asked questions
Is Pingjiang Road free?
Yes. The street is free and always open. Boats, teahouses and some small museums charge.
How long is Pingjiang Road?
About 1.6 km from Dongbei Street in the north to Ganjiang Road in the south. Walking it takes an hour with stops.
Pingjiang Road or Shantang Street?
Pingjiang Road is quieter and more residential. Shantang Street is livelier, with more restaurants and lights at night. With time for one, choose Pingjiang.
What is the nearest metro station to Pingjiang Road?
Zhuozhengyuan Subo on Line 6 for the north end, and Xiangmen on Line 1 for the south end.