Huandao Road, Xiamen: Cycling the Seaside Stretch

When visitors talk about Huandao Road they mean the seaside stretch on Xiamen Island's southeast shore, about 13 kilometres from Baicheng beach below Xiamen University to Xiangshan near Hecuo. Ride it on a shared or rented bike in one to two hours with stops, or walk the first few kilometres past Hulishan Fortress to Zengcuo'an and take a bus back. It is free, needs no booking and has almost no shade, so outside winter the good hours are morning and late afternoon. After the ticketed planning of Gulangyu, this is the easy day. The full road is a loop of about 43 kilometres round the island, and the city plan is in the Xiamen travel guide.

The stretch, west to east

Yanwu Bridge. The scenic section effectively starts with this 2.2-kilometre white viaduct, which runs from the naval pier area near the old Shapowei harbour to Baicheng and opened on 6 September 2003. Its lowest deck is only 5.5 metres above the sea, which Chinese sources describe as among the closest of any bridge to sea level. The lights are built into the railings instead of lamp posts, so they do not break up the shoreline. The viewing platform is a favourite sunset spot, with Gulangyu and the harbour to the west.

Baicheng beach. At the foot of the university and the usual starting point. Hulishan Fortress is on its headland a short way east.

Zengcuo'an. A former fishing village just inland of the road, now a dense grid of guesthouses, cafes and snack stalls. It is busy and commercial, and it is the obvious place to eat. Evenings and weekends are crowded.

Huangcuo and the eastern beaches. Wider and quieter sandy stretches. Swim only where lifeguarded bathing is posted. Yefengzhai and other named beaches along here appear on local maps.

The Kinmen view. Offshore, Lesser Kinmen, Dadan and Erdan are administered from Taipei, and on clear days they are easy to see. A huge roadside sign reading "One Country, Two Systems, Unify China" faces them across the water.

Beyond Huangcuo the road reaches the convention centre district at Qianpu. For most riders this is the place to turn back or catch a bus.

Three ways to do it

The half-day ride. Pick up a shared bike near Baicheng in the late morning, after Nanputuo Temple or the university. Stop at Hulishan, eat in Zengcuo'an, ride east along the beaches, then turn back and reach Yanwu Bridge for sunset. Thirteen kilometres one way takes one to two hours with stops, so this is a gentle afternoon.

The short walk. From Baicheng, walk past Hulishan to Zengcuo'an, two or three kilometres, eat, and take a city bus back along the coast. This is the right choice in summer heat or with children.

Reversed for morning light. The coast faces south and east. Morning light suits the eastern beaches and evening light the western end near the bridge. Start at the Huangcuo end in the morning and ride west, finishing at Zengcuo'an for lunch.

Paths for walkers and cyclists run beside much of the road. Shared bikes are everywhere in Xiamen, and rental shops near Baicheng and Zengcuo'an hire bikes too. Park shared bikes only in the marked zones, because parking rules change and fines apply. Walking all 13 kilometres makes a long, hot day, and few people enjoy the whole stretch on foot.

How the road came about

Construction started in 1991 and went on in three phases, with total investment close to 3.8 billion yuan. The loop starts at the Shigushan interchange in the north of the island and runs down the western waterfront along Lujiang Road, opposite Gulangyu. It then crosses the sea on Yanwu Bridge to the university and Hulishan, follows the south and east shores past Zengcuo'an and Huangcuo to the convention centre at Qianpu, and turns north across Wuyuan Bridge and back past the airport.

In 1997, when Xiamen chose a new list of twenty city views, the seaside stretch made it in as "Looking at the Sea from the East Ring". It is also the course of the Xiamen Marathon, held each winter.

Weather and safety

• Sun: there is little shade on the seaside stretch. From May to October bring sun protection and water, and avoid the middle of the day.
• Typhoons: July to September is typhoon season. Strong winds close beaches and make cycling unsafe, so check the forecast.
• Swimming: only at beaches posted as bathing areas, following the lifeguard flags.
• Crowds: weekend evenings bring heavy foot traffic around Zengcuo'an. Ride through it slowly or lock up and walk.

Frequently asked questions

How long is Huandao Road?

The full loop round Xiamen Island is about 43 kilometres. The seaside stretch most visitors mean, from Baicheng to Xiangshan, is about 13 kilometres.

Should I bike or walk Huandao Road?

Bike if you want the whole seaside stretch in a few hours. Walk if you only want Baicheng to Zengcuo'an with Hulishan on the way.

Is Huandao Road free?

Yes. Only bike hire, food and the Hulishan Fortress ticket cost money.

When is the best time to go?

Late afternoon into sunset, outside the summer heat. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons.